Offwidth Climbing Technique. We've been climbing together for the last 6 years or so and

We've been climbing together for the last 6 years or so and became a little better known when we developed a major obsession for offwidth climbing and made the first ascent of Century Crack in the USA. Jan 7, 2026 · 42 likes, 12 comments - mike_largent on January 7, 2026: "Beyond Jamming: April 24-27 SJE Crack: May 15-17 Wide Works: May 22-24 #offwidth #tradclimbing #rockclimbing #crackclimbing #climbinglife". The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climber’s craft. com is a site about climbing, mountaineering, trekking, via ferrata, freeriding, ski mountaineering, snowboarding, snowshoeing, and ice climbing on all the Levitation Technique - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Randy Leavitt demonstrates the "Leavittation" rock climbing technique. This course, in the offwidth capital of the world, will teach you basic and advanced offwidth climbing techniques that will have you cruising wide cracks in style. Crack Climbing by Pete Whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. Apr 4, 2020 · It makes me dream of an offwidth climbing problem in the olympics. 5. #climbing #offwidth #thakek #laos #greenclimbershome #ターケーク Sep 8, 2016 · Invert offwidth climbing is a progression of Leavittation, a climbing technique developed by Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro and used to tackle the four- to six-inch-wide, 20-foot-long roof crack Paisano Overhang (5. 7K Mar 5, 2019 · As equipment and climbing technique got better higher sub-classes were added. A must-watch for any aspiring offwidth climber. Here are stretches to complement the program. ly/3LWOL6hIn collaboration with Vibram May 4, 2022 · ICE CLIMBING Ascending frozen ice by using special ice axes and crampons. Ondra & Schubert Wide Boyz 243K subscribers 2. May 8, 2013 · Very cool instructional video with Randy Leavitt demonstration the subtleties of Leavittation technique. Apr 16, 2008 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Aug 5, 2013 · This borderline-shameful experience encouraged me to hone my offwidth methods, because here—as in all climbing— technique and style matter. I teach Art of Offwidth clinics to help climbers find Apr 1, 2010 · An offwidth is a crack that is bigger than your fist and smaller than chickenwings (hence, OFF-WIDTH, as in nothing really fits or jams securely). Heel Hooking Placing the heel of the foot on a hold and using it like an extra hand. Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body into and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. All climbing styles require a high level of fitness, but the full-body workout of climbing wide cracks is closer to alpinism than sport climbing. It is one of the hardest and longest offwidth crack climbs in the world. Keeping gear out of the way As if it weren’t challenging enough to place humongous gear, navigating around it can be just as difficult. Demonstrating some calf-locking technique through the challenging first 25 feet. A helpful guide for beginners in rock climbing! Nov 26, 2019 · This detailed and comprehensive guide teaches step-by-step techniques and tips, including for: Jamming (finger, hand, fist, foot, arm, leg, body) Crack types (chimneys, liebacks, underclings, roof cracks) How to safely lead and place protection Efficient positioning and movement Strength recovery while climbing Oct 29, 2018 · Learn This: Invert Offwidth Techniques From Pamela Shanti Pack As Parker noted in an Instagram post after the send, “My first offwidth experience happened simultaneously with the Wideboyz’ free ascent of Century Crack. 13 in her late 60s, and Steve McClure gives advice for "old folks" looking to climb in their later years Apr 4, 2025 · If you plan on trad climbing, cams are essential. Hueco A large rounded pocket. Headpointing Climbing a route or problem after rehearsing the moves on a top rope first. [1][2][3] The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. Designed for Jan 17, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. agjohnsphotography. It’s awkward, weird, and absolutely brilliant when it clicks. Apr 11, 2022 · Though only about 70 feet, it incorporates a variety of techniques up polished granite: full-body jams and stems, hand stacks, chicken-wings, and laybacks. ai on February 28, 2023: "Nubbel thakek One of the best pitches in thakek. Ideas for core sessions include Pilates, CoreAlign, and core group fitness classes. Every four weeks or so, my partner and I have been climbing an offwidth outside to stay sharp. A good mentor, guide or teacher will make learning as safe as it can be, by assessing Oct 14, 2021 · When climbing offwidth, it’s very easy for the rope to get pinched in between your body and the rock. Since the cracks are unique in size, the climbing can seem awkward. Offwidth’s team of facilitators, guides and coaches are here to help you as an individual, you as a departmental team, you as an organisation, to creatively analyse your way through these awkward spaces, finding the mental power to move beyond the ” offwidth ”. Everything Else - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Dec 27, 2025 · Offwidth tips and The Twilight Zone Climber's Forum Route Beta Trip Reports Articles Mar 16, 2025 · When climbing offwidth routes, it is important to wear proper protective gear such as knee pads and gloves to prevent scrapes and bruises. ” Nov 21, 2011 · Is climbing something like Century Crack all in the technique, or is the bigger obstacle building up the endurance to hang upside-down for that long? Whittaker: It's definitely the endurance factor. Jul 17, 2015 · Offwidth/Chimney Climbing vs. John Evans Photography She set off for a week in the offwidth mecca of Vedauwoo where she learned the precise technique of offwidth climbing, because like the aforementioned skanking, as brutal and haphazard as it may appear, there is actually technique involved. These two Englishmen are on a mi The Wide Boyz Quiz Climbing Pros on Crack Technique Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall test Red Bull Dual Ascent competitors on their offwidth climbing knowledge Aaron Pardy Published January 2, 2023 Jun 6, 2012 · Video by Wild Country - "Crack School" is a series of six short videos designed to utilize the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker to give an introduction to basics of crack climbing. Jul 29, 2019 · Even for the toughest of offwidth climbers protecting your skin from the dreaded cheese grader is important. Big Gear Classifications Kathy Karlo on Offwidth Climbing and Internet Bullying (x-post from /r/climbing) OTHER Sync to video time Description Yosemite Rock Climbing - Mental Block 5. Jun 16, 2016 · Their non-crimping style gave Pam pause for thought. Additionally, if you’re a budding offwidth climber yourself, I hope these tips will help speed you along your wondrous and wide climbing journey! Developed by Tony Yaniro and myself, and dubbed Leavittation, this method combines many different existing climbing techniques. Feb 28, 2023 · ailaaila. 14b Share this video: More Posted by phil on August 2, 2012 Filed under Trad Climbing 5. Photo by me. | Pamela Shanti Pack | Facebook 󱡘 Pamela Shanti Pack Nov 8󰞋󱘺Q Lazzarus󰞋󱟠 󳄫 The Double Chicken 🐓 Wing — one of my all-time favorite offwidth techniques. Apr 15, 2013 · Another technique is to start a session with 45 to 60 seconds of a high-intensity exercise (such as squat jumps), followed by one minute of a challenging exercise (box pushes), and then switch to exercises of 15 reps. (Speed off-width climbing? I guess I could come around to that. May 28, 2013 · Long, vertical offwidths are physically grueling—even with impeccable technique. The Northeast Buttress is a memorable route characterized by steep, sustained, and physically demanding climbing that keeps building on difficulty. In rock climbing, a crack climb is a type of climbing route that follows a system of crack (s) or fissure (s) which the climber uses to ascend the route. Offwidth cracks are too narrow to fit your whole body in and too wide to use standard crack climbing techniques. These cracks often require a combination of techniques that are different from those used in standard crack climbing. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Climbing cams increase your safety, acting as anchor points in cracks and crevices where bolts are Pete Whittaker climbing the Monster Offwidth at night during his one day rope-solo ascent of Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite Planetmountain. 13-5. It’s not unusual to Jul 31, 2013 · Shimmying up offwidths is grueling, physical punishment that can tax your entire body, and like the routes themselves, training is a completely different beast from running laps in the gym. Face Climbing Neil Gresham's masterclass is a very good resource for face climbing techniques. Highball A tall boulder problem. Plus, shoulders are the most sophisticated Pete Whittaker from the famous @WideBoyz showed me how to climb Off Widths! I hope you like the video, let me know what you think in the comments?Subscribe Upper body There are 3 main techniques to use for the top portion of your body; hand stacking, arm bars and chicken wings. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. traditional climbing A climbing style. A step up from Birds of Prey or a great combination for a full day! Again, stellar crack climbing and a final overhanging pitch that is without comparison. An excellent route on perfect Yosemite granite featuring interesting, continuous and varied climbing. Hand stacking is really the reserve of advanced offwidth climbing and to be honest, you'll only find this of real use once you climb routes of E3 and above. An ice climber using crampons on his feet and ice axes in his hands to ascent the inside of a glacier. “It’s a great place to practice these techniques,” says offwidth aficionado Rob Pizem. 11-5-12 Expert routes are vertical, and may have overhangs with small holds. Join the group then check our posts to find the coupon code. Heel-toe Jam A jam used in wide cracks. com/Brought to you byVertical Endeavors: https://www. com/Qualit Kathy Karlo on Offwidth Climbing and Internet Bullying (x-post from /r/climbing) OTHER Apr 15, 2013 · In Climbing's May issue, we ran Part 1 of an offwidth training program devised by Pamela Pack. Originally filmed in 2012 at Mt. Use techniques like arm bars, chicken wings, and heel-toe I teach Art of Offwidth clinics to help climbers find that flow — learning efficient technique, body positioning, and mental endurance. [2] Nov 5, 2025 · Calf-locks are one of the more challenging offwidth techniques! Just another spectacular route I found while wandering around the desert. Even with instruction, Danny admits that starting to offwidth climb can be discouraging and painful. Woodson, California. 15 are for professional climbers. Offwidth climbing is a prime example. Brad Jackson, a prominent Vedauwoo, Wyoming, offwidth climber, says, “All athletic movement starts at the hips and core; strong hips equal a strong athlete. Here’s how: How to Start Trad Climbing ONE: Learn to place gear. ). This often leads to a bunch of slack pooling up on your lap that the belayer can’t feel. There are multiple options for stabilization/core training. ” Jul 30, 2025 · This past summer, I have been training in my Moab garage for Century Crack (5. Nov 19, 2025 · Learn about the types of climbing holds and how they differ from one another. 🧗‍♀️ My next clinic is November 7–9th in Joshua Tree, California. Apr 14, 2020 · Climbing Book Club We recently launched a new Facebook group to discuss climbing literature: Climbing Book Club. Related videos: 4 inch Crack off-width climbing technique put in action. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cutting-edge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of Century Crack (5. 14b), a monster offwidth roof crack in the White Rim. This more closely resembles offwidth climbing and provides variety to the training routine. Why? Because offwidth climbing and crack climbing in general are extremely rough on the body (and speci Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. 14b (8c). 11, Indian Creek. Twist Offwidth Technique - When did upside down start? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Crack climbing technique So, I'm trying to teach myself to crack climb, and am looking for any technique tips anyone has (hell, if someone can explain the technique like I am 5 years old that would probably help :P ) My hand jams are ok if I can find a nice constriction, but otherwise don't seem to jam strong enough. May 29, 2022 · Full episode watch here - https://bit. Overview The Art of Offwidth™ climbing clinics, developed by offwidth expert, prolific first ascentionist and professional climber Pamela Shanti Pack, are a great way to get into offwidth climbing and/or improve your offwidth skills. We’ve all heard the stories about making it mid-pitch only to hyperventilate and vomit on the belayer from being pushed to your physical limit. tramming / trolleying A technique that is typically used while lowering and cleaning gear from an overhanging and/or traversing route. There's nothing new in hand-jam stacks, you will say, but a builder who uses standard materials can still come up with a unique design! Even an easy offwidth is hard! We believe qualified in-person training should be the main way of learning and progressing in rock climbing. 12c) on the Sunshine Face at Suicide Rock, California. Shallow 4inch offwidth technique? I'm working on a replica crack in my local gym that starts at fists and widens steadily to a hand fist stack, followed by narrowing gradually all the way to thin hands. Do shoulder circles forward and backward. 14b Working on offwidth technique as of late. Both Jul 11, 2021 · Comp Climbers VS. 14b Dec 30, 2025 · What is an Offwidth? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Calf- locks are one of the more challenging offwidth techniques! - with FrictionLabs and 2 others at Indian Creek. Their story spoke to me, and although I had just projected a 40’ 5. Crack Climbing: The Definitive Guide is the first book we’re covering, and we’re offering members 25% off their copy. I decided to climb only offwidths in Red Rock, Vedauwoo, Wyoming, and Indian Creek, Utah, until I could easily send Chrysler Crack. Ice climbing is less popular than rock climbing, and typically more dangerous due to the unpredictable nature of ice, which can break without warning. The width of the crack dictates the techniques needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand/fist cracks, arm cracks, and body (also called Mar 16, 2025 · Offwidth climbing is a type of rock climbing that involves wide cracks that are too narrow for a climber's entire body to fit into, but too wide for traditional hand and foot placements. Traditional or trad climbing involves climbing routes in which removable protection against falls is placed by the climber while ascending. Sep 10, 2021 · I want to set the record straight and give some concrete tips that can change the way folks see offwidth climbing. co/GBj1dUlTRJ) Other links: Sep 12, 2019 · Beyond that, there are many techniques and movements only found on trad routes. What is Off-width Climbing? 'Off-width' is a particular style of rock climbing that involves cracks that are wider than the typical hand or fist size yet too narrow for a climber to fit his or her entire body into. Jul 12, 2018 · Crack climbing 101 Video by Anthony Johnson: https://www. Beyond basic hand and foot jamming, these articles helped me early on in my climbing career: Hi, we're Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker and commonly (unlucky for us!) known as the Wideboyz. Offwidth is a challenging technique of rock climbing that requires one to have patience and endurance a bit of suffering to be successful. It’s an elegant, intelligent form of movement — every move a balance of strength, control, and precision. Choose at least two to three core workouts per week throughout each cycle. Statically stretch major muscle groups (legs, arms, back, chest, etc. They learn about taping, different offwidth attire, and a number of different techniques including arm bars, heel toe cams, chicken wings and side winder squeeze chimneys. Jun 30, 2022 · Crack climbing wizard JP “Peewee” Ouellet shares how to use rubber, tape, and glue to climb off-size splitters without destroying your skin. See Links: Other route maps: NatGeoMaps (t. Sep 26, 2016 · It was from these lowkey sessions that the Offwidth Army was born. 10 outting on the Chief. 10c - Offwidth Adventure 192Likes 12,777Views 2021Nov 5 Century Crack is a 120 ft (40m) long offwidth roof crack climb in the White Rim Sandstone, Canyonlands National Park, Utah, graded at 5. The Wide Boyz share an insider tip on how to bat Off-Width Training - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. English Access & Conservation Indoor Climbing Rock Climbing Hill Walking Mountaineering Performance Nov 7, 2025 · Check out Athena Rock Climbing for our Art of Offwidth clinic dates Spring 2026 in Joshua Tree, CA. Climbers Taping your hands for crack climbing is a smart move. Climbing Devils Tower requires a specific technique called crack climbing, where instead of climbing features on the rock face the climber wedges their hands and feet into vertical cracks between columns of rock in order to move upward. Since its discovery and first aid ascent by Steve Bartlett in 2001, when he dubbed it “Chocolate Starfish,” Century Crack has represented one of the ultimate limits of offwidth climbing. Having no crack machine within driving distance, I had to find novel ways of complimenting the occasional gym session with more offwidth-specific training. 9 is the grade where things get crazy. . In 2011, Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, the “Wide Boyz,” completed the first free ascent. Apr 18, 2016 · In my eight years as an offwidth climber, I’ve gleaned the following tips to help you become more adept at the gear portion of offwidths, which will make you a more efficient wide-crack wizard overall. The crack trainer is great, but we wanted to make sure we were strong not just in the simulator, but on real rock. Any tips/suggestions? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment vaahterapuu • Additional comment actions Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall dedicated two years of their lives to training for off-width routes they had never even seen. You’re here to get started. This short video is a great insight on how to climb those nasty sized wide crack!… Nov 1, 2023 · Technique practice: Find an offwidth crack at your local climbing gym or outdoor climbing area and practice specific offwidth techniques, such as arm jams, leg scums, and body wedging. The idea of this post is to share the little tricks we've all learned for crack climbing, as it has a lot more to do with technique than strength. . Continuing up Angels Crest makes the longest (17 pitches) 5. The guys will cover all widths of cracks—fingers, hands, fists, and offwidths—as well as gear placement, taping up, body position, and overall technique. “It’s sustained yet pretty mellow… You can easily practice without being in the best shape. : r/climbing     TOPICS Gaming Sports Business Crypto Television Celebrity RESOURCES The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climber’s craft. May 29, 2013 · During the climbing season, it’s beneficial to follow a training program that keeps you at a high level of strength without burning you out mentally or making you overly fatigued. It was once the top end of free-climbing difficulty, the ultimate on a decimal scale where “five-ten” was illogical and unnecessary. verticalendeavors. 9, the dream of climbing Century Crack was alive. Here are stabilization exercises to practice throughout the program. Angle #1 - • 4 inch Crack off-width climbing technique 4 inch Crack off-width climbing technique put in action. Sam Perkins demonstrating proper offwidth technique on Big Baby 5. The techniques are unusual, the climbing is often uncomfortably slow, and when you do it wrong, your skin and body suffer. Stretch out calves on rocks and other terrain. May 22, 2012 · Upper body There are 3 main techniques to use for the top portion of your body; hand stacking, arm bars and chicken wings. Here is a sample of the video and Here is a link to buy it Crack Climbing Wild country produced a well made video series that goes into a some of the techniques for the different sized cracks out there: Finger Cracks Hand Cracks Fist Cracks Offwidth Jan 15, 2025 · Irmgard Braun shares her tips after climbing 5. (Photo: Getty Images) Aug 31, 2023 · Featuring varied crack and face climbing, the offwidth roof is much easier than it appears. Jul 19, 2011 · 5. Dedicated climbers may reach this level with lots of practice. Offwidth Foot Technique, Ft. ) Who won? Who lost? How do the Big Bros compare with cams? What about passive gear? All is revealed below. Aug 15, 2015 · A common technique to get through off widths is to essentially use your arms and legs the way you would use your fingers in finger cracks, shove as much as you can inside the crack and then bend them to get them jammed. Okay, enough about how great trad climbing is. The best climbers in America in the 1950s imagined nothing harder as they pimped up dime edges and ran out dark and desperate chimneys that only the very best and boldest could follow. Hand Stacking An advanced technique for hand jamming in offwidth cracks. I think it brought together the perfect miss of super instructors with eager to learn students. If you can get a fist, then it's a fist crack and if you can get a chickenwing you are climbing a chimney. Jun 18, 2018 · Being old and, as I’d like to believe, wise, I decided to capitalize on experience, ingrained technique and cunning as opposed to overdoing it on such training sessions. Perform the same exercises you did for offwidth training after the 13 weeks is over, but follow the intensity guidelines outlined below. 14b Jan 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Also, try dynamic stretching while hiking, so go down deep into lunges as you move up. Nov 20, 2025 · The route demands exceptional offwidth technique and endurance. 11d crack F7a+ Mother Superior offwidth Randy Leavitt technique Trad Climbing Oct 26, 2025 · Offwidth climbing isn’t just grit. Leavittation involves hand-fist stacks and leg- and calf-locks. Mar 6, 2025 · Belay, anchor, dyno, quickdraw, send — what do these all mean in the climbing world? Learn about these climbing terms and more in this article. Master offwidth climbing tips for trad with tips on body positioning, strategy, breathing, and movement to stay controlled and conserve energy. Apr 15, 2013 · In Climbing's May issue, we ran Part 1 of an offwidth training program devised by Pamela Pack. I’m glad that I was able to use my offwidth technique at the crux 35mの変化に富んだ楽しいルート。ワイドテクが使えて感激！苦手意識の強いスポーツルートが好きになってきました。 . Wild Country 'Crack School' is a series of six short videos designed to utilise the skills and knowledge of Wild Country climbers Tom Randall and Pete Whitta Our clinic will give you the chance to climb dozens of desert offwidth masterpieces in the world class climbing destination of Indian Creek as you learn techniques and tricks from renowned offwidth masters who have been in the sport for decades and established hundreds of first ascents and world-renowned test-pieces. Expect sustained climbing, tons of jamming and several sections of burly offwidth.

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